On The Auditory Road |
This blog is for those interested and involved in my MA project. From January through April I will be traveling across the United States of America following one of the routes "Sal Paradise" i.e Jack Kerouac took as outlined in his book "On The Road" and recording the soundscape of the journey as I go. This audio adaptation of the book will eventually be realised as a 16 channel piece. |
After waiting in line for the bus for a good hour or so I was finally let on to enjoy my trip through the rest of Arizona, New Mexico and Texas down to El Paso (I have no idea why there is a company named after this town because the place is a serious shit hole.) Where I would have to change buses.
The ride was ridiculously plain, the desert simply went on for mile and miles with no respite; hardly anything but mountains and cacti for hundreds of miles, the only thing breaking up the monotony being the random advertisements found along the road for the most ridiculous things. The main one that recurred excessively was advertising “The Thing” in Arizona, which, after some internet research seems to be nothing but a man-made mummy…
I grabbed some quick lunch at Mc. Do and enjoyed a brief conversation with the server who had never spoken to anybody from England before which I doubt many people from New Mexico have and carried on for a few more hours until eventually I arrived in El Paso, TX. That does not however mean it was the end of my journey I had over 24 hours of bus travel left to go before I got to Mexico city.
I changed buses and was suddenly by far the minority, in fact, I was the only Caucasian on the bus and absolutely no English was spoken (even by the driver) which added to me anxiety and confusion of what I was meant to be doing. Before even leaving the depo American immigration officers come onto the bus to check everybody’s documents; my visa-waiver form was deemed fine and wasn’t taken out of my passport (which would prove useful later on) but unfortunately for one of my fellow riders he didn’t have any kind of documentation and was forced off the bus, handcuffed and taken into custody… what a lovely start to the entry process into Mexico.
A short 10 minute drive to the border followed and it was my turn to be dragged off the bus, I showed my passport but I needed to fill out a visa form; an English speaking Mexican assured me I would be fine and that it was an easy process for “someone like me” but the fact the immigration officer didn’t speak any English did not fill me with hope. I arrived into the small building to the side…
“Don’t mind him he’s a bit slow, just fill out this form”
“Oh, Okay, Thanks… I don’t actually have an address for when I get there though…”
“Ah, don’t worry about that! Just put Mexico City, it doesn’t matter”
So I gave back my half filled out form and I was given a copy, all was well, this certainly wasn’t like getting into the USA at the airport! I was satisfied everything would work out fine. I got back on the bus for another 10/15 minute journey into Juarez where I would then wait for just over an hour. I had to change my ticket at the desk but didn’t understand what the clerk was saying at all (for he spoke Spanish and my Spanish is tragic) but after a little help from an onlooker and a few hand gestures I finally knew when and where I was supposed to be going.
The bus to take me to Mexico City was pretty damn comfortable and also fairly cheap. I had no Pesos so couldn’t buy anything to eat or drink (I didn’t want to change my money at the border because you get a terrible exchange rate) so had to wait this out until I could get further into the country. I got on the bus, a Spanish version of “Little Man” was put on which I assume is a fairly poor film even when you understand what’s being said but it was especially awful so I just switched off, put my headphones on and listened to The XX.
The bus journey down was beautiful, it was pitch dark by this point and once we were in the countryside the stars were amazing, I’d never in my whole life seen stars this bright. The whole sky was lit up with them, I didn’t even know there were that many stars visible from the earth, I just stared out the window open jawed for a good two hours which a few tears coming to my eyes as I realised just how awfully we pollute the sky with artificial light and deny ourselves this beautiful pleasure.
After a little sleep and another half day’s traveling I finally arrived at the city but after the long trip and a few hold ups it was now around 10pm and pitch black again, I had no idea where I was going and couldn’t get hold of my couchsurfing host. I was ridiculously worried at first but found the the first cheap looking hotel I could find and after some form of conversation and blank expressions from both the hotel worker and myself I realised the room for the night would be 120 Peso which translates to about 6 GBP, I laughed out loud and payed the money giving the man 50 Peso tip which he seemed ecstatic about.
I quickly ran to the shop bought enough beer to help me sleep, some coke (made with real sugar not corn syrup!) and some cheetos, had a quick shower, turned on the television to find I had free hardcore porn on about 4 channels, tucked myself into bed and enjoyed my delectable feast of alcohol and naked ladies.